Monday, January 2, 2017
Welcome 2017 in Chiang Mai
I have been in Chiang Mai for a couple of days now, and it is nice to be in a familiar place even with many small and a few large changes. The weather has been dark, cool, and rainy, and has dampened my mood and spirit somewhat. I have walked over to Wat Chedi Luang for my morning meditation at the foot of the large chedi (pagoda), and have gone to a yoga class every morning at 10 AM (90 minutes to two hours), but aside from that, I have not ventured out much.
The New Year's celebrations were almost non-existent. The Thai people are mourning the recent loss of their King, King Rama IX, also known as King Bhumibol Adulyadej, who passed away on October 13, 2016. During his coronation ceremony, he pledged that he would "reign with righteousness for the benefit and happiness of the Siamese people." The king held the throne for 70 years and 126 days, taking the throne on June 9, 1946. King Rama IX served the people of Thailand well, looking for the long-term good wherever possible, and living up to his pledge.
Most Thai people are wearing black, and the mourning period will last about one year. Places where staff wear uniforms have changed to black uniforms. At hotels, restaurants, even walking by massage studios, the ladies and staff are in black uniforms. The celebrations that did take place over by Tha Phae Gate, the center of past celebrations, where obviously mostly tourists. I walked by early in the evening and did not see Thai people. And whereas in past years, the celebrations were extensive with 2 or 3 stages on which bands were playing or groups dancing and tens of thousands of people celebrating, there were only a thousand or maybe two thousand people over by Tha Phae Gate. Obviously subdued, and no massive fireworks display as in past years.
And then January 1 it rained. Not a hard rain, but fairly constant and cool. Thai people are saying the rain echoes their mood of mourning the loss of their king.
Walk Around the Old City Between Rains
So today, there are clouds, and it is a bit dark, but I did get out after yoga for a short walk around familiar parts of the city, namely the monument to the Three Kings and Wat Chedi Luang:
I walk by The Monument to the Three Kings almost every day. I just love their attitude. King Mengrai founded Chiang Rai in the mid-1200s built as a walled city. The word "chiang" historically meant "walled city." Being close to Burma, there were many battles with the Burmese. In Lanna (the country at the time making up most of northern Thailand) there were smaller kingdoms. King Mengrai and two neighboring kings, the Three Kings, joined together to build a new city, farther from burma and with not only a wall, but also a moat to protect the city. This new city is Chiang Mai. "Mai" in Thai means "new" so Chiang Mai historically translated means New Walled City. Tomorrow or the next day I will walk around the entire circumference of the wall/moat and share pictures.
This is a view of the large chedi (pagoda) at Wat Chedi Luang in the early morning sun between the clouds, simply beautiful. It is strong, powerful, and large. Construction of the chedi started in the 14th century and was finally completed in the mid 15th century. In 1468, the Emerald Buddha was installed in the eastern niche (what looks like a door at the top of what almost appears to be stairs in the picture). This chedi was the largest structure in Lanna for hundreds of years. In 1545, the top was destroyed by an earthquake. There have been a few restorations, but the top is left unfinished as there is no documentation of how it looked, and to restore it improperly would be to dishonor it.
The doors of the large viharn (worship hall) are also closed this early. The paintings of the thewada (angelic beings that live in the heavenly realms...angels) on the doors are visible. The temples in northern Thailand are much more exuberant in their artistry and style than the comparatively subdued temples in central Thailand (Bangkok). On the central Thai temples, there are no naga (dragon-like serpents) on the stairway banisters, no other creatures, and no paintings or other depictions of thewada on the doors or walls.
Central Thailand and Northern Thailand were two different countries until the 19th century. Northern Thailand was a country called Lanna, and there is Burmese influence in the structures as the Burmese were in control from the mid-1500s for almost 200 years. Then in the late 19th century, Lanna and Siam merged as western interests in the vast northern teak forests grew larger. Siam officially came to be known as Thailand in 1949.
Next: A break in the rain and walking around the moat/wall
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| The Monument to the Three Kings |
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| View of the large chedi at Wat Chedi Luang from where I sit each morning for my meditation, looking almost directly north.. |
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| The doors to the viharn at Wat Chedi Luang |
Central Thailand and Northern Thailand were two different countries until the 19th century. Northern Thailand was a country called Lanna, and there is Burmese influence in the structures as the Burmese were in control from the mid-1500s for almost 200 years. Then in the late 19th century, Lanna and Siam merged as western interests in the vast northern teak forests grew larger. Siam officially came to be known as Thailand in 1949.
Next: A break in the rain and walking around the moat/wall
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