First Walk Around the Moat

Wednesday, January 4, 2017
A first Walk Around the Wall & Moat

Today, after a few days of rain, there are clouds but the rain has not come today. I go to yoga class at Wild Rose Yoga every day for about 90-120 minutes, and after yoga class today, I ventured out and embarked on a walk around the circumference of the wall. Chiang Mai was built as a walled city, with a moat around the wall to help protect the city. The wall is approximately square (surprisingly close to square given that it was built in the mid-1200s), about 1.5 kilometers on each side (about 1 mile). This makes for a walk of more than 6 kilometers (4 miles). 

I started the walk by heading to the north gate. There are five "gates" in the wall, and historically the north gate, known as Chang Phuak Gate,  was for royalty. Here is a picture of Chang Phuak Gate from across the moat and just to the east.

It is a very nice day for walking, not too hot, and while it is humid, I will work up a bit of a sweat today.

Walked across the north side of the wall/moat heading west, and passed Wat Lok Molee. This is a picture of the entrance, guarded by two Yaks from across the very busy perimeter road. Wat Lok Molee is one of my favorite temples, with an all-teak viharn (worship hall), so I will be back to share some more detailed pictures of this temple. At almost every temple, the viharn doors open to the east to greet the rising sun. At Wat Lok Molee, the main viharn doors open to the south. After four years of asking people about why this might be, I still have no answer, so the investigation continues. Perhaps on this visit to Chiang Mai, I will learn the solution to this little mystery.

At the northwest corner is Hua Lin Corner, this large structure. The old brickwork was partly restored in the 1800s, and for being that old, is holding up well.

Looking south from Hua Lin Corner is this view of part of the wall on the left and the moat stretching to the south. There are stories that the moat was once twice as wide as is seen today, having been narrowed in the early 1900s to make room for the perimeter road. I am not too sure. If I did see one picture of the wall and moat in the late 1800s or early 1900s, and if I can find that again, I'll post it. The moat did not appear much wider in that picture as I recall.

Half-way down the west side of the wall/moat is Suan Dok Gate. This once opened to the king's flower gardens, and the term "suan dok" refers to a flower garden. Directly west of Suan Dok Gate about 1 kilometer is Wat Suan Dok. This is another favorite temple, a very important temple to the Thai people, and has a great story. I will be back at Wat Suan Dok soon for pictures and to report on its story.

This is a view of one of two gates on the south side of the wall, Suan Prung Gate. Historically, this gate was for the removal of cadavers from the city for cremation. superstition is part of the Thai culture, and many Thai people avoid this area thinking that is has bad demons. Just inside this gate is a very nice large park. Another place I shall return for more photos.

This is Chiang Mai Gate, the busiest gate, and historically, the gate used by most people. Along this gate is a very busy market every afternoon and evening with many food vendors. I almost never go there, as I avoid "street food." Many people go there every day for inexpensive and tasty meals.

At the south-east corner is Katam Corner. Historically, water flowed from a creek into the moat at Hua Lin Corner (northwest), across the north side and down the east side, and also down the west side and across the south side, leaving at Katam Corner. A "katam" is a bamboo trap for catching fish, and as the water left the moat, fish were caught here, giving the corner its name.




It started to rain, so I put my camera away as I hurried up the east side past Tha Phae Gate and onto the Sri Phum Corner at the northeast. By the time I made it back to 3-Sis, I had recorded over 14,000 steps on my fitbit. A mostly good day for walking with a little more rain then I would like towards the end. tomorrow I'll be back at yoga, and if the rain holds off, out for more exploration.

Next: The flower market and Wat Kate Karam